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England for dummies


England
FOR

DUMmIES



3RD

EDITION

by Donald Olson



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England
FOR

DUMmIES



3RD

EDITION

by Donald Olson


England For Dummies®, 3rd Edition
Published by
Wiley Publishing, Inc.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
www.wiley.com
Copyright © 2006 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana
Published simultaneously in Canada
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About the Author
Donald Olson is a novelist, playwright, and travel writer. His
newest novel, Confessions of a Pregnant Princess, was published in
2005 under the pen name Swan Adamson. An earlier Swan
Adamson novel, My Three Husbands, has been translated into
French and published in several European countries. Donald
Olson’s novel The Confessions of Aubrey Beardsley, was published
in the United Kingdom by Bantam Press, and his play, Beardsley,
was produced in London. His travel stories have appeared in the
New York Times, Travel + Leisure, Sunset, National Geographic
books, and many other publications. England For Dummies, 1st
Edition won a 2002 Lowell Thomas Travel Writing Award for best
guidebook. His other guidebooks London For Dummies, Best Day
Trips from London, Irreverent London, Germany For Dummies, and
Frommer’s Vancouver & Victoria are all published by Wiley
Publishing, Inc. London is one of Donald’s favorite cities, and
England is one of his favorite countries.

Dedication
This book is dedicated to all those Londoners who showed the
world in July 2005 that they are stronger than any terrorists.

Author’s Acknowledgments
I would like to thank BritRail for helpful assistance while I was
researching this new edition of England For Dummies. Thanks also
go to Gary Larson and Stephen Brewer.


Publisher’s Acknowledgments
We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummies
online registration form located at www.dummies.com/register/.
Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following:
Editorial
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Steve Bidler/eStock Photo; Dorset:
Shaftesbury: family walking on
Gold Hill, thatched cottages beyond
Back cover: © Nick Bodle/
Alamy Images; Cumbria:
Derwent Water scenic
Cartoons: Rich Tennant
(www.the5thwave.com)

Composition Services
Project Coordinator: Jennifer Theriot
Layout and Graphics: Carl Byers,
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Indexer: TECHBOOKS Production
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Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies
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Technology/General User
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Debbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services


Contents at a Glance
Introduction .......................................................1
Part I: Introducing England.................................7
Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of England ..................................9
Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into England ......................................15
Chapter 3: Deciding When and Where to Go ..............................24
Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Five Great Options ..............41

Part II: Planning Your Trip to England ...............55
Chapter 5: Managing Your Money ................................................57
Chapter 6: Getting to England........................................................69
Chapter 7: Getting Around England ..............................................77
Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations ................................87
Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests ......................95
Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details ....................103

Part III: London and Environs ..........................113
Chapter 11: Settling Into London ................................................115
Chapter 12: Exploring London ....................................................158
Chapter 13: Day-tripping from London ......................................201

Part IV: The Southeast ....................................221
Chapter 14: Kent and Sussex ......................................................223
Chapter 15: Kent’s Best Castles, Stately Homes,
and Gardens ............................................................................247

Part V: The West Country ................................259
Chapter 16: Hampshire and Wiltshire:
Old Wessex and New Sarum ..................................................261
Chapter 17: Devon: Moors, Tors, and Sandy Shores ................274
Chapter 18: Cornwall: Saints, Salts, Sea, and Sun......................292

Part VI: England’s Heartland...........................309
Chapter 19: Stratford-upon-Avon and Warwick Castle ............311
Chapter 20: Bath and the Best of the Cotswolds ......................325

Part VII: Way Up North ..................................349
Chapter 21: Yorkshire ..................................................................351
Chapter 22: The Lake District ......................................................377

Part VIII: The Part of Tens...............................399
Chapter 23: Ten Writers and the Places They Lived ................401
Chapter 24: Ten Great English Gardens......................................405


Chapter 25: Ten (Or So) Great English Churches......................409
Chapter 26: Ten Important Royals — Past and Present ..........413

Appendix: Quick Concierge..............................422
Index .............................................................433


Maps at a Glance
The Regions in Brief ..................................................................................25
London’s Neighborhoods ......................................................................122
London’s Top Hotels ..............................................................................132
London’s Top Restaurants......................................................................144
London’s Top Attractions ......................................................................160
British Museum........................................................................................163
St. Paul’s Cathedral..................................................................................171
Tower of London......................................................................................173
Westminster Abbey ................................................................................175
West End Shopping..................................................................................186
London’s Clubs, Pubs, and Bars ............................................................194
Day Trips from London ..........................................................................202
Cambridge ................................................................................................203
Oxford ......................................................................................................215
The Southeast ..........................................................................................224
Canterbury ..............................................................................................227
Rye ............................................................................................................231
Brighton ....................................................................................................239
Kent’s Castles, Stately Homes, and Gardens........................................248
Hampshire and Wiltshire ........................................................................262
Winchester ..............................................................................................264
Salisbury ..................................................................................................269
Devon ........................................................................................................275
Exeter ........................................................................................................276
Dartmoor National Park..........................................................................282
Cornwall....................................................................................................293
England’s Heartland ................................................................................312
Stratford-upon-Avon................................................................................314
Bath ..........................................................................................................327
Yorkshire ..................................................................................................352
York ..........................................................................................................353
York Minster ............................................................................................363
The Lake District ....................................................................................378
Keswick ....................................................................................................393



Table of Contents
Introduction ......................................................1
About This Book......................................................................1
Conventions Used in This Book ............................................2
Foolish Assumptions ..............................................................3
How This Book Is Organized..................................................3
Part I: Introducing England..........................................4
Part II: Planning Your Trip to England........................4
Part III: London and Environs......................................4
Part IV: The Southeast..................................................4
Part V: The West Country ............................................4
Part VI: England’s Heartland .......................................5
Part VII: Way Up North .................................................5
Part VIII: The Part of Tens............................................5
Icons Used in This Book.........................................................6
Where to Go from Here...........................................................6

Part I: Introducing England ................................7
Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of England..................9
The Best of Legendary London .............................................9
The Best Cities, Towns, and Villages ..................................10
The Best Castles, Palaces, and Stately Homes ..................11
The Best Cathedrals and Churches ....................................11
The Best Historic Places ......................................................12
The Best Gardens..................................................................13
The Best Romantic Landscapes ..........................................13
The Best Shopping ................................................................14

Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into England......................15
The Main Events: A Brief History of England ....................15
Building Blocks: An Overview of English Architecture ....18
Dining English Style from Traditional to Modern .............20
Visiting the Local Pub...........................................................20
Background Check: Finding England
in Books and Movies.........................................................21
Books............................................................................22
Movies ..........................................................................23

Chapter 3: Deciding When and Where to Go ..............24
Going Everywhere You Want to Be .....................................24
Looking at London: from Buckingham Palace
to the British Museum............................................24


xii

England For Dummies, 3rd Edition
Exploring Southeast England: Canterbury,
castles, and historic towns....................................26
Sightseeing at Stonehenge and in
the West Country: Hampshire,
Wiltshire, Devon, and Cornwall.............................27
Discovering England’s heartland: Stratfordupon-Avon, the Cotswolds, and Bath ...................28
Heading north: Yorkshire and the Lake District .....28
Scheduling Your Time...........................................................29
Revealing the Secrets of the Seasons .................................30
Traveling during high and low seasons ...................30
Watching those unpredictable skies ........................31
Blooming in spring......................................................32
Shining (and raining) in summer ..............................32
Glowing in autumn......................................................33
Welcoming in winter...................................................34
Perusing a Calendar of Events.............................................35
January.........................................................................35
February.......................................................................35
March ...........................................................................36
April ..............................................................................36
May ...............................................................................36
June...............................................................................37
July................................................................................38
August ..........................................................................38
September....................................................................39
October ........................................................................39
November ....................................................................39
December.....................................................................40

Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary:
Five Great Options.........................................................41
Seeing England’s Highlights in One Week ..........................42
Touring the Best of England in Two Weeks........................45
Discovering England with Kids............................................47
Strolling through England’s Greenery:
An Itinerary for Garden Lovers .......................................49
Visiting England’s Past: An Itinerary for History Buffs ....51

Part II: Planning Your Trip to England...............55
Chapter 5: Managing Your Money .................................57
Planning Your Budget ...........................................................57
Lodging.........................................................................57
Transportation ............................................................58
Dining ...........................................................................59


Table of Contents

xiii

Sightseeing...................................................................59
Shopping and nightlife ...............................................60
Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun ........................................62
Handling Money ....................................................................63
Using ATMs and carrying cash..................................64
Charging ahead with credit cards.............................64
Toting traveler’s checks.............................................65
Dealing with a lost or stolen wallet ..........................66
Taking Taxes into Account...................................................67
Tipping Like You Mean It......................................................68

Chapter 6: Getting to England.........................................69
Finding Out Who Flies Where ..............................................69
Getting the Best Deal on Your Airfare ................................70
Working with Consolidators ......................................71
Booking your flight online .........................................71
Arriving by Other Means......................................................72
Taking the train ...........................................................72
Riding a ferry or hovercraft.......................................73
Joining an Escorted Tour .....................................................73
Choosing a Package Tour.....................................................75
Locating package tours ..............................................75
Checking out airline and hotel packages.................76

Chapter 7: Getting Around England...............................77
Weighing the Options: Train or Car? ..................................77
Riding the Rails......................................................................77
Buying your train ticket .............................................78
Negotiating the rail system........................................78
Getting to know London’s train stations .................79
Saving with BritRail passes........................................80
Hopping a Coach: Bus Travel ..............................................81
Driving on the Left, Passing on the Right: Car Travel ......81
Renting a car in London — or not ............................82
Renting a car in England ............................................83
Hitting the road: Motorways, dual carriageways,
and roundabouts.....................................................84
Following the rules of the road .................................85
Coping with emergencies on the road .....................85
Filling up the tank .......................................................86

Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations .................87
Finding the Right Place for You ...........................................88
Understanding the pros and cons of B&Bs .............88
Exploring hotel choices .............................................89
Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate.............................92


xiv

England For Dummies, 3rd Edition
Surfing the Web for Hotel Deals ..........................................93
Reserving the Best Room.....................................................94

Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests.....95
Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families ..................95
Locating family-friendly accommodations
and restaurants .......................................................96
Hiring a baby-sitter in England..................................97
Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors .......................97
Accessing England: Information for
Travelers with Disabilities ...............................................98
Considering the benefits of escorted tours...........100
Dealing with access issues ......................................100
Following the Rainbow: Resources for
Gay and Lesbian Travelers.............................................101

Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details...103
Getting a Passport...............................................................103
Applying for a U.S. passport....................................103
Applying for other passports ..................................104
Entering England with your passport ....................105
Dealing with a (gulp) lost passport ........................105
Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical Insurance .........105
Staying Healthy When You Travel.....................................106
Staying Connected by Cellphone ......................................107
Accessing the Internet Away From Home ........................109
Keeping Up with Airline Security ......................................111

Part III: London and Environs .........................113
Chapter 11: Settling into London..................................115
Getting There.......................................................................115
Flying to London .......................................................115
Taking the train .........................................................119
Orienting Yourself in London ............................................119
Introducing the Neighborhoods........................................120
The City of London ...................................................120
West End ....................................................................121
West London..............................................................124
The South Bank .........................................................126
Finding Information After You Arrive ...............................126
Getting Around London......................................................127
By Underground (subway) ......................................127
By bus.........................................................................129
By taxi.........................................................................130
On foot........................................................................130


Table of Contents
Staying in Style ....................................................................131
The top hotels ...........................................................134
Runner-up accommodations ...................................141
Dining Out ............................................................................143
Neighborhoods for ethnic eats ...............................143
Strategies for budget dining ....................................143
The top restaurants..................................................146
Treating Yourself to a Tea ..................................................155
Casual tearooms and patisseries ............................155
Elegant spots for high tea ........................................156

Chapter 12: Exploring London ......................................158
Discovering the Top Attractions .......................................158
Finding More Cool Things to See and Do .........................175
Seeing London by Guided Tour .........................................181
Bus tours....................................................................181
Boat tours ..................................................................182
An amphibious tour..................................................183
Walking tours.............................................................183
Following an Itinerary.........................................................184
Shopping in London............................................................184
When to shop and how to find deals......................184
Where to shop and what to buy..............................185
Living It Up After Dark ........................................................190
Finding out what’s happening .................................190
Getting tickets ...........................................................190
Raising the curtain on performing arts
and music...............................................................190
Checking out the club and bar scenes ...................192
Fast Facts: London ..............................................................197

Chapter 13: Day-tripping from London........................201
Cambridge: Medieval Colleges on the River Cam ...........201
Getting to Cambridge ...............................................201
Finding information and taking a tour ...................204
Getting around Cambridge ......................................204
Exploring the best of Cambridge ............................204
Finding more to see and do in Cambridge.............207
Dining in Cambridge .................................................208
Greenwich: The Center of Time and Space......................209
Getting to Greenwich................................................209
Finding information and taking a tour ...................209
Exploring Greenwich ................................................210
Dining in Greenwich .................................................211
Hampton Court Palace: Henry VIII’s Riverside Estate....211
Getting to Hampton Court .......................................211
Exploring Hampton Court........................................212

xv


xvi

England For Dummies, 3rd Edition
Royal Botanic Gardens (Kew Gardens):
Royal Pleasure Grounds .................................................212
Getting to Kew Gardens ...........................................213
Exploring Kew Gardens............................................213
Oxford: Town and Gown.....................................................213
Getting to Oxford ......................................................214
Finding information and taking a tour ...................214
Exploring the best of Oxford ...................................214
Finding more to see and do in Oxford....................216
Dining in Oxford ........................................................217
Blenheim Palace: Ancestral Home of the Churchills ......218
Getting to Blenheim Palace .....................................218
Exploring Blenheim Palace ......................................218
Windsor Castle: Official Royal Residence ........................219
Getting to Windsor Castle........................................220
Exploring Windsor Castle ........................................220

Part IV: The Southeast ...................................221
Chapter 14: Kent and Sussex........................................223
Canterbury: Tales from the Great Cathedral ...................224
Getting to Canterbury ..............................................225
Finding information and taking a tour ...................225
Staying in or near Canterbury.................................225
Dining in or near Canterbury ..................................226
Exploring Canterbury...............................................228
Rye: Smugglers, Mermaids, and Writers ..........................229
Getting to Rye............................................................230
Finding information ..................................................230
Taking a tour of Rye..................................................231
Staying in Rye ............................................................232
Dining in Rye .............................................................233
Exploring Rye ............................................................234
Battle: 1066 and All That ....................................................236
Getting to Battle ........................................................236
Finding information ..................................................236
Dining in Battle..........................................................237
Exploring the Battle of Hastings Abbey
and Battlefield .......................................................238
Brighton: Fun Beside the Seaside .....................................238
Getting to Brighton ...................................................239
Finding information ..................................................240
Getting around Brighton ..........................................240
Staying in or near Brighton......................................240
Dining in Brighton.....................................................242


Table of Contents

xvii

Exploring Brighton....................................................243
Shopping in Brighton................................................245
Stepping out in Brighton, night or day...................245

Chapter 15: Kent’s Best Castles,
Stately Homes, and Gardens.....................................247
Knole: A Room for Every Day of the Year ........................248
Getting to Knole ........................................................249
Exploring Knole.........................................................249
Hever Castle: Anne Boleyn Slept Here..............................250
Getting to Hever Castle ............................................250
Exploring Hever Castle.............................................251
Chartwell: The Private Life of a
Famous Prime Minister...................................................252
Getting to Chartwell .................................................252
Exploring Chartwell House ......................................252
Leeds Castle: Castle of Queens, Queen of Castles ..........253
Getting to Leeds Castle ............................................253
Exploring Leeds Castle.............................................253
Sissinghurst Castle Garden: Romance
amongst the Roses ..........................................................254
Getting to Sissinghurst Castle Garden ...................255
Exploring Sissinghurst Castle Garden ....................255
Dover Castle: Towers and Tunnels ...................................256
Getting to Dover Castle ............................................256
Exploring Dover Castle.............................................256

Part V: The West Country ...............................259
Chapter 16: Hampshire and Wiltshire:
Old Wessex and New Sarum....................................261
Winchester: King Alfred Meets Jane Austen....................263
Getting to Winchester ..............................................263
Finding information and taking
a tour of Winchester .............................................263
Staying in Winchester...............................................264
Finding lunch or a spot of tea .................................264
Exploring Winchester and
the surrounding area ............................................265
Salisbury: High-Spire Act....................................................268
Getting to Salisbury ..................................................268
Finding information on Salisbury ...........................268
Staying in or near Salisbury ....................................269
Dining in Salisbury....................................................270
Exploring Salisbury and the surrounding area .....271


xviii England For Dummies, 3rd Edition
Stonehenge: Visiting the Standing Stones........................272
Getting to Stonehenge ..............................................272
Exploring Stonehenge ..............................................273

Chapter 17: Devon: Moors, Tors,
and Sandy Shores .......................................................274
Exeter: Sea Captains and Silversmiths .............................275
Getting to Exeter .......................................................276
Finding information and taking a tour ...................277
Staying in Exeter .......................................................277
Dining in Exeter.........................................................278
Exploring Exeter........................................................279
Shopping for Exeter silver .......................................280
Dartmoor National Park: Back to Nature .........................281
Getting to the park....................................................281
Finding information ..................................................281
Taking a tour of the park..........................................283
Staying in Dartmoor National Park.........................283
Dining in Dartmoor National Park ..........................284
Exploring in and around Dartmoor
National Park .........................................................285
Torquay: Relaxing on the English Riviera ........................286
Getting to Torquay....................................................287
Getting around and touring Torquay .....................287
Finding information ..................................................287
Staying and dining in Torquay ................................287
Exploring Torquay ....................................................288
Plymouth: Where the Pilgrims Set Sail .............................289
Getting to Plymouth .................................................289
Taking a cruise in Plymouth ....................................289
Finding information ..................................................289
Locating a spot for lunch or tea..............................290
Exploring Plymouth ..................................................290

Chapter 18: Cornwall: Saints, Salts, Sea, and Sun...292
Penzance: As in “The Pirates of . . .” .................................294
Getting to Penzance..................................................294
Finding information and taking a tour
of Penzance............................................................295
Staying in Penzance ..................................................295
Dining in Penzance ...................................................296
Exploring in and around Penzance.........................298
The Penwith Peninsula: A Driving Tour
from Penzance to Land’s End ........................................300
Stop #1: Newlyn.........................................................300
Stop #2: Mousehole ..................................................301


Table of Contents

xix

Stop #3: The Minack Theatre ..................................301
Stop #4: Land’s End ..................................................302
St. Ives: Artists’ Haven by the Sea.....................................302
Getting to St. Ives ......................................................302
Finding information about St. Ives..........................303
Staying in St. Ives ......................................................303
Dining in St. Ives........................................................304
Exploring St. Ives ......................................................304
Finding more to see near St. Ives ............................305
Fowey and the Saint’s Way: River Town
and Holy Track ................................................................306
Cotehele, Eden Project, and Lanhydrock:
Three Great Cornish Gardens ........................................307
Cotehele .....................................................................307
Eden Project ..............................................................308
Lanhydrock................................................................308

Part VI: England’s Heartland ..........................309
Chapter 19: Stratford-upon-Avon
and Warwick Castle...................................................311
Stratford-upon-Avon: In the Bard’s Footsteps .................311
Getting to Stratford-upon-Avon...............................312
Finding information about
Stratford-upon-Avon .............................................313
Getting around and touring
Stratford-upon-Avon .............................................313
Staying in Stratford-upon-Avon ...............................313
Dining in Stratford-upon-Avon.................................315
Exploring the best of Stratford-upon-Avon............317
Finding more to see and do in
Stratford-upon-Avon .............................................320
Seeing a play in Stratford-upon-Avon .....................321
Shopping in Stratford-upon-Avon ...........................321
Warwick Castle: Warlords and Ladies ..............................321
Getting to Warwick ...................................................322
Dining at Warwick Castle .........................................322
Exploring Warwick Castle ........................................322
Finding more to see and do in Warwick.................324

Chapter 20: Bath and the Best of the Cotswolds ......325
Bath: Hot Mineral Springs and
Cool Georgian Splendor..................................................326
Getting to Bath ..........................................................326
Finding information and taking a tour of Bath......328
Exchanging money and locating ATMs ..................328


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England For Dummies, 3rd Edition
Staying in and around Bath .....................................329
Dining in Bath ............................................................330
Exploring Bath...........................................................332
Cheltenham: A Little Bath ..................................................334
Getting to Cheltenham .............................................335
Traveling among the local villages .........................335
Finding information and taking a tour
of Cheltenham .......................................................335
Staying in Cheltenham .............................................335
Dining in Cheltenham ...............................................336
Exploring Cheltenham..............................................337
Shopping in Cheltenham..........................................338
Bourton-on-the-Water: Bridges on the Windrush ...........338
Getting to Bourton-on-the-Water ............................338
Stopping for a spot of tea in
Bourton-on-the-Water ...........................................339
Exploring Bourton-on-the-Water .............................339
Upper Slaughter and Lower Slaughter:
Quiet and Atmospheric ..................................................340
Broadway: Village Shopping ..............................................340
Getting to Broadway.................................................340
Finding information about Broadway ....................341
Staying in Broadway .................................................341
Stopping for a spot of tea in Broadway..................341
Exploring Broadway and vicinity............................341
Chipping Campden: Picture Perfect .................................342
Getting to Chipping Campden.................................342
Staying and dining in Chipping Campden..............342
Exploring Chipping Campden .................................344
Cirencester: Market Town with a Roman Past ................344
Getting to Cirencester ..............................................344
Finding information about Cirencester..................344
Staying in Cirencester ..............................................344
Dining in Cirencester ................................................345
Exploring Cirencester...............................................346
Shopping in Cirencester...........................................347

Part VII: Way Up North .................................349
Chapter 21: Yorkshire.....................................................351
York: Ancient Walls and Snickelways ...............................352
Getting to York ..........................................................353
Renting a car or calling a taxi..................................354
Finding information about York ..............................354
Exchanging money and locating ATMs ..................354


Table of Contents

xxi

Taking a tour in York ................................................355
Staying in York...........................................................356
Dining in York ............................................................357
Exploring York...........................................................359
Shopping in York.......................................................364
Stepping out at night in York...................................364
Day-tripping from York: Castle Howard
and Eden Camp .....................................................365
Scarborough: Cliffs and Arcades.......................................366
Getting to Scarborough............................................367
Getting around Scarborough ...................................367
Finding information and taking a tour of
Scarborough ..........................................................367
Staying in Scarborough ............................................367
Dining in Scarborough..............................................369
Exploring Scarborough ............................................369
Seeing the performing arts in Scarborough ..........372
Yorkshire’s Two National Parks: Moors and Dales .........372
North York Moors National Park ............................372
Yorkshire Dales National Park.................................374
Haworth: On the Trail of the Brontës ...............................375
Getting to Haworth ...................................................375
Finding information and taking a tour
of Haworth .............................................................375
Dining in Haworth.....................................................376
Exploring Haworth....................................................376

Chapter 22: The Lake District .......................................377
The Lake District: Natural Beauty
and Literary Treasures ...................................................379
Getting to the Lake District .....................................379
Getting around the Lake District.............................380
Taking a tour of the Lake District ...........................380
Lake Windermere: The Largest Lake in England .............381
Finding information and exchanging money
near Lake Windermere .........................................381
Touring by boat or foot............................................381
Staying near Lake Windermere ...............................382
Dining near Lake Windermere.................................383
Exploring around Lake Windermere.......................385
Grasmere: Wordsworth Territory .....................................387
Finding information about Grasmere .....................387
Touring on foot..........................................................387
Staying in and around Grasmere.............................388
Dining in Grasmere ...................................................389
Exploring in and around Grasmere.........................390


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England For Dummies, 3rd Edition
Keswick: Lakeland Central .................................................392
Getting to Keswick ....................................................392
Finding information and exchanging money
at Keswick ..............................................................392
Staying in or near Keswick ......................................392
Dining in Keswick......................................................394
Exploring in and around Keswick ...........................395
Shopping in Keswick ................................................397
Discovering Keswick’s performing arts .................397

Part VIII: The Part of Tens..............................399
Chapter 23: Ten Writers and
the Places They Lived ................................................401
Jane Austen..........................................................................401
Charlotte, Emily, and Anne Brontë....................................402
Charles Dickens...................................................................402
Henry James (and E. F. Benson)........................................403
Beatrix Potter ......................................................................403
Vita Sackville-West ..............................................................403
William Shakespeare...........................................................404
William Wordsworth ...........................................................404

Chapter 24: Ten Great English Gardens ......................405
Castle Howard .....................................................................405
Chelsea Physic Garden.......................................................406
Eden Project.........................................................................406
Hever Castle.........................................................................406
Hidcote Manor.....................................................................407
Kew Gardens........................................................................407
Lanhydrock ..........................................................................407
Sissinghurst Castle Garden ................................................407
Stourhead .............................................................................408
Warwick Castle ....................................................................408

Chapter 25: Ten (Or So) Great English Churches.......409
Canterbury Cathedral: Pilgrim Central ............................409
Exeter Cathedral: A Medieval Sculpture Gallery.............410
King’s College Chapel: Unparalleled Lightness ...............410
St. Martin-in-the-Fields: West End Landmark...................410
St. Paul’s Cathedral: Wren’s Crowning Achievement......411
Salisbury Cathedral: High in the Sky ................................411
Westminster Abbey: England’s Crowning Glory .............411
Winchester Cathedral: Saxon Power Base .......................412
York Minster: England’s Largest Gothic Church .............412


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